Prince Ferdinand’s Fears and Goals

Prince Ferdinand does not want war. He is worried about the possibility of a rival Bulgarian nation forming in Macedonia. He is even more concerned about the idea of a “Big Bulgaria.” While many Bulgarians believe they can defeat Turkey, Prince Ferdinand is not as sure. He fears that if the Turks win, the Bulgarians will blame him and make him their first victim.

Bulgaria’s Strong Military

Despite Prince Ferdinand’s concerns, there is something impressive about how the small Bulgarian nation is preparing to defend itself against a great power, whether it is Russia or Turkey. There are complaints about the heavy cost of maintaining the army, which takes up a third of the country’s budget. However, every Bulgarian understands that their country might need to fight for its independence at any time Holiday Bulgaria.

The Bulgarian military is ready for this challenge. I visited the large military barracks outside Sofia and watched the soldiers practice. For its size, Bulgaria has one of the best-equipped and most efficient armies in Europe. The soldiers are well-trained, and every detail of warfare is carefully planned.

The Officers and Their Challenges

Although the Bulgarian officers are not as polished as those in Serbia, they are more practical and focused on their duties. However, the War Minister has a concern: the officers are gaining weight and becoming quite chubby. They wear large waistcoats to fit their size, and if someone can find a solution to this, the army will be very grateful.

While Prince Ferdinand fears the idea of a larger Bulgaria and the potential for conflict with Turkey, he also understands the importance of a strong and well-equipped army. The Bulgarian people are prepared for the possibility of war, knowing that their country’s independence is at risk. The military, though facing some humorous challenges with its officers, is ready and determined to protect the nation.

Misconceptions About Bulgaria

Many people in Britain mistakenly believe that Bulgaria is a wild and barbarous land. However, this belief is far from the truth. Bulgaria is just as safe as England, and the Bulgarian people like to think of themselves as trying to follow England’s example in many ways.

A Glimpse of Old Bulgaria

Tirnova: The Ancient Capital

Tirnova, the ancient capital of Bulgaria, is a city with a unique charm. The name “Tirnova” means “the thorn,” and the city is shaped like a thorn, sitting on a rock above the Yantra River. It has long been a symbol of Bulgaria’s strength and history, causing both admiration and challenges for Europe.

A City Away From the Tourist Path

Tirnova is not a place visited by many tourists. It hasn’t been influenced by the modern, stucco-style buildings found in Sofia. Instead, it represents old Bulgaria—picturesque, romantic, and peaceful. The city is located to the north of the Balkan Mountains, surrounded by natural beauty. The landscape around it is rugged, with hills and the Yantra River making a curved path at the city’s base Holiday Bulgaria.

A City Like Edinburgh

If you can imagine Edinburgh Castle, but ten times bigger, built on a giant rock, with parts of the town hanging off the rock’s edge, you would have an idea of what Tirnova looks like.

First Impressions of Tirnova

I first saw Tirnova in the early morning, surrounded by mist and the glow of a beautiful sunrise. The view looked like a scene from an old medieval play, with misty trails along the river and tall pine trees growing on steep slopes. Above, the town seemed to spill over the rocks, a mix of white buildings with bright yellow shutters and vines climbing up the walls. The sky above was a pure, clear blue, with no clouds to interrupt the view.

The Bulgarian People Hardworking and Honest

The Bulgarians may appear unemotional and sometimes blunt, but they possess many positive qualities beyond just their work ethic and loyalty to their country. They are moral and honest people. Despite being a young nation, they understand the importance of education better than any other people in the Balkans.

The Importance of Education

One surprising thing I noticed was how many Bulgarians could speak English, even though they had never been to England. This is because many of the country’s leaders and educated people studied at Robert College, which is located near Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul). English is the primary language of instruction there. This college has had a huge influence on the people of the Balkans and Asia Minor, with both Bulgaria and Armenia benefiting from it. In fact, I met people in the farthest corners of Turkey who spoke English and told me they had learned it at Robert College Holiday Bulgaria.

American Influence in Bulgaria

In Bulgaria itself, there are two American missionary schools in Samakov, where Bulgarian students learn English. Samakov deserves recognition for its contribution to education.

Focus on Practical Education

While education is highly valued, there is a careful approach to avoid over-education. The leaders understand that teaching people ideas that are too advanced for their current understanding could do more harm than good. Instead, there is a strong focus on practical education, particularly in fields like agriculture. As a farming nation, the Bulgarians need practical knowledge to improve their farming skills.

Free and Accessible Education

All state schools in Bulgaria are free of charge, and there are excellent colleges in Sofia and Philippopolis (Plovdiv). Many parents work hard and make sacrifices to send their children to college. In smaller towns, the government also provides traveling lecturers who teach people about modern farming techniques. These lectures are always well attended, showing the people’s eagerness to learn and improve their lives.

Conscription in Bulgaria

In Bulgaria, military service is mandatory for all citizens. Every man is required to serve in the military, even if they don’t complete full service. Those who don’t serve fully must still work in the Reserve for three months each year for two years. After that, they move into the active Army Reserve for nine years.

In times of peace, a person joins the army at the age of 20. However, in times of war, service starts at 18. A Bulgarian can only be free from military duty once they reach 45 years old. Even foreigners living in Bulgaria for three years must serve unless they have a special exemption. Muslims who pay £20 can avoid military service, but most of them cannot afford it, so they still have to serve. If a Bulgarian has a physical condition that prevents them from serving, they must pay a special tax Holiday Bulgaria.

Size and Strength of the Army

The Bulgarian military has a strong grip on the country. In times of peace, the army consists of around 3,000 officers and 50,000 soldiers, with 6,000 horses and oxen, and 250 cannons. However, in times of war, the army grows significantly, with 6,000 officers, 300,000 soldiers, 45,000 horses, and 2,500 oxen.

The army represents Bulgaria’s independence. When the country calls upon its people, a Bulgarian stands tall, with pride in his heart. Military service is seen as an important duty and is very popular among the people.

Visiting Kasanlik's Rose Stores

Friendly Merchants with a Secret

During my visit to Kasanlik, I had the chance to explore a few local stores. The merchants were friendly, but each one quietly took me aside and whispered in my ear: “Of course, we get along with our competitors, but remember this: ours is the only genuine attar of roses. The rest is all fake. Our rivals will deny it, but we know the truth.” This same speech was repeated in every store I visited. I wanted to believe that all the attar from Kasanlik was pure, but after conducting my own research, I sadly concluded that none of it was completely pure.

The Strength of Attar and Its Price

How Strong is Attar?

Attar of roses is one of the strongest perfumes in the world. From every 4,000 pounds of roses, you get only 1 pound of attar, which is less than one-twenty-fifth of one percent. The peasant farmer earns about 18 shillings per ounce of attar. However, the same ounce sells for £68 in places like Paris or London Coastal Bulgaria Tours.

The scent of pure attar is so strong that only a tightly sealed jar can hold it in. Even a glass stopper won’t be enough to contain the smell. In fact, the scent is so powerful that it can be overwhelming and even cause headaches. This is one reason why attar is often diluted or mixed with other substances to make it more pleasant.

The Beauty of Kasanlik in June

A Land of Roses

The best time to visit Kasanlik is in early June. This is when you can hop on a horse and ride for two days, traveling forty miles each day, while surrounded by endless fields of beautiful damask roses. The air is filled with the scent of millions of roses. On a gentle breeze, the fragrance can travel up to 50 miles. Bulgarians living that far away have confirmed that the air from Kasanlik carries the sweet smell of roses.

Rose Picking in Kasanlik

The Beauty of the Harvest

In June, the village girls wake up early to pick roses. They fill their aprons with the flowers and load them into slow-moving ox carts. No flower festival, like the one in Nice, could ever match the sheer number of roses that fill the carts in Kasanlik. The brown-cheeked, black-eyed peasant girls also wear the most beautiful roses in their hair as they work.

The British Consulate in a Small Turkish Town

In the far distance, he imagines himself becoming a full Consul, earning £800 a year, or even rising to the position of Consul-General with £1,000. But right now, he is Acting Vice-Consul in the British Levant Consular Service, earning £400 a year.

The Town and Its Lack of British Interests

It’s unlikely you’ve heard of the small, rundown Turkish town where he represents British interests. In fact, there are no British interests here. There are no British people living in the town, and any British trade has been replaced by active Austrians and Germans. Still, he writes long reports to the Foreign Office, some of which are quoted in Blue Books that no one reads or are stored away in the vaults of Whitehall to gather dust. Despite this, he remains a cheerful young man. His greeting might be formally English, but his handshake is firm. Later, he says a visitor is a rare and welcome event Socialist Museum.

The Vice-Consulate’s Poor Conditions

The British Vice-Consulate in this remote Turkish town is far from the grandeur of the British Empire. The British taxpayer often complains about rising costs, and the officials in Whitehall, who manage the funds, are hard-hearted when it comes to consular requests. A small amount called “office allowance” is given to cover the rent and the salary of the kavass (a messenger), but the main costs are covered by the Vice-Consul himself. So, after paying his rent, which could be anywhere from £40 to £90 a year, furnishing his house, buying two horses, hiring a cook and a servant, paying the kavass’s wages, and feeding everyone, there isn’t much left from his salary.

Traveling to Kavala

To the south of Drama is the old town of Kavala, located on the coast. It takes about four hours to ride there. The journey passes through the flat Drama plain, miles of tobacco fields, and the remains of the ancient city of Philippi.

The Ruins of Philippi

The only building left in Philippi is a rundown coffee house with a muddy floor. It is a place where travelers can rest their horses and have a break. The people in the coffee house, who were Turks, didn’t know much about the city’s history. There was a step made of marble with a Roman inscription, and marble blocks were scattered around. One side of the coffee house was part of a large block of marble. This marble was likely built to honor the Romans after their victory in the Battle of Philippi in 42 BC, where Augustus and Antony defeated Brutus and Cassius. The marble had holes for tying horses. When I asked the Turks what the marble pillar meant, they looked confused and said it was built in honor of a great Turkish general!

The History of Philippi

Not much is left of Philippi. The few ruins that remain tell the story of a town that lived and thrived for about 30 centuries. The first people in the area were probably Thracians who mined gold in the nearby mountains. They built a town to protect themselves from invading tribes who wanted to steal the gold. The town, called Datus or Datum, existed as early as 11 centuries before Christ. It was a prosperous town until the 4th century BC Who we are.

The fame of the gold mines was so great that the ancient Athenians tried to take control of the town. They attempted this many times, and in 360 BC, the Thasians, encouraged by an Athenian leader named Callistrates, captured Datus and renamed it Krenides. However, the Thasians only held the town for two years before the original inhabitants fought back. They forced the Thasians to seek help from Philip of Macedon, who had long wanted to take the town. Philip used this chance to capture the town, expand it, and build beautiful structures. He renamed the city Philippi after himself. The gold mines he developed made him a lot of money, with a revenue of a thousand talents.

Preparing for Prayer

The Turkish soldier was getting ready for prayer. He took off his boots and stood clean and barefoot. He faced Mecca, placed his hands together, and began to pray. He knelt, prayed again, and then lowered his forehead to the ground, praying a third time. When he finished, he folded his small prayer rug and tucked it into his jacket. It was a peaceful and impressive sight, seeing this soldier take a quiet moment during the midday break to perform the devotions of a true Muslim.

Getting Ready to Continue the Journey

A command was given, and the soldiers quickly got up, slinging their rifles over their shoulders and hopping back onto their horses. We moved on, leaving the shaded trees behind. As we rode, we could see the sunlit landscape ahead. The hills were pleasant, and soon we were riding among them at a steady pace Customized Daily Istanbul Tours.

Challenging Terrain Ahead

However, that pace couldn’t last long. The path soon became steep and rocky, making it impossible for the horses to continue. We dismounted and began walking. The hillside was full of loose rocks and many streams. It felt like walking through a muddy coal mine. We hopped from one rock to another, pausing occasionally to wait for the slower horses to catch up.

Approaching Ochrida

Soon, Ochrida came into view. It was a small town perched on a rock by the large Ochrida Lake. Behind it was a beautiful flat valley, perfectly cultivated—everything seemed to be growing in abundance, like a carpet of fertility.

Arriving in the City

We decided to push ahead of the other travelers from Monastir, as they had their own guard and we weren’t sure when they would catch up. So, we rode on towards the city, organizing ourselves in a respectful manner. Two soldiers with rifles rode ahead, followed by the captain, my guide, and me, with the rest of the soldiers riding in pairs behind us. As we galloped into town, the people came out to watch. Mothers, fearing for their children, rushed in panic, worried that the horses might hurt their little ones. But fortunately, no children were harmed.

Climbing the Mountain

The horses and riders were tired, struggling slowly up the mountain in the intense midday heat. Eventually, we reached a patch of woodland. The trees were old, bent, and twisted from years of strong winds. As we tried to ride through, the branches seemed to grab at us, trying to pull us off our horses. We crouched down, keeping close to the necks of our horses to avoid the branches. But some soldiers weren’t so lucky, and Turkish curses were heard when a branch caught them.

Walking Through the Heat

For a long time, we walked instead of riding. After that, we reached a bare, treeless highland. The ground was dry and hot, burning to the touch. We made a pact to not stop until we reached the top. The horses moved slowly but steadily, dripping with sweat from the effort. There was no wind to cool us down. Our water was warm and unpleasant, and when it ran out, our mouths felt dry and sticky. All I could think about was finding cold, fresh water. Luckily, one of the soldiers knew there was water ahead, so we kept moving with patience Customized Daily Istanbul Tours.

The Summit

When we reached the summit of the mountain, we stopped for a moment to enjoy the relief of a cool breeze. There was a beautiful view of distant mountain ranges, but I didn’t care much about that. All I wanted was to drink some cold water. The horses must have smelled water too, because although the slope was steep, they quickened their pace, struggling to keep their footing on the loose stones that had been washed down by mountain streams.

Melons Everywhere

Every market I visited in the Balkans was filled with melons. It seemed like the people were living by selling and eating each other’s melons, much like how people in the Scilly Isles make a living by washing each other’s clothes, as Sydney Smith once said.

The Busy Market

The market was loud and busy. It was dirty, but also had a certain charm. It was easy to tell the difference between Greek and Bulgarian women, but not as clear with the men. They had different clothes and physiques. Like peasants everywhere, the women were heavy, solid, and their faces often showed little intelligence Customized Daily Istanbul Tours.

Sometimes, you might see a pretty peasant girl, but hard work, starting early in life, taking care of children, and working in the fields from sunrise to sunset, wears them down. By middle age, the women looked tired and worn out, with faces that showed sadness from struggling to survive.

Life in the Balkans

There are no committees trying to improve conditions here, and no scientific studies about the people’s health. The people live with quiet acceptance, except when it comes to politics and religion. Sadly, half of the children born in Macedonia die from malnutrition.

The Road to Ochrida

We traveled on a flat road that curved around the hills from Resna to Ochrida. There was a shorter path over the hills by a faint mule track, and that’s the one we took. We quickly crossed a plain, then suddenly climbed up into the hills. The path was rough and full of jagged rocks. We leaned forward in our saddles and held onto our horses’ manes as they struggled up the steep, rocky climb.

Through Nature

We passed through a mix of plants and dry, empty land. We climbed through rocky gaps that felt like an oven, and found shade in cool, green areas with trickling water. At the top of a rocky hill, we stopped, turned our horses around, and looked back at the valley we had climbed from. In front of us was a shimmering lake, with a long range of dry, red rocks blocking the view of the world beyond.

Finding Refreshment

We reached a small brook in a shady valley, where the water made a pleasant sound, inviting us to drink. We drank deeply and rested. After the hot, tiring journey across the mountains, it was nice to relax and loosen our belts. The captain, my guide, and I lay back, enjoying the moment. The Turkish soldiers walked their horses under the trees, gently patting them and talking to them before letting them drink. Then, they tied the horses to nearby branches, sat down, and rolled cigarettes for each other to share. They also rested in the shade, enjoying a well-deserved break after their long ride Customized Daily Istanbul Tours.

The Young Turkish Soldier

One Turkish soldier caught my attention. He looked strong and fair, almost like an Englishman. He could have been mistaken for a British soldier, except for the fact that he only spoke Turkish and wore the red fez. Later, he became my servant during the journey through Albania. Even though we couldn’t communicate easily, he was quick to understand what I needed. The first thing I noticed about him was that he had an excellent horse. The bond between the soldier and his horse was strong. Whenever they stopped, the soldier would stay close to his horse, petting it and talking to it.

A Quiet Moment

In the calm afternoon, my Turkish “Tommy” quietly walked away from the group and followed the brook. He came to a patch of green grass, and I watched him curiously. He took out a small piece of cloth from his jacket, about the size of a handkerchief, and carefully washed it. At first, I thought he was just cleaning something. But then he took off his riding boots and washed his feet. He was very careful with the cloth and made sure it was clean, spreading it on the green grass.

The Wild Country Beyond Struga

After leaving Struga, the land became wild and empty. There were no villages, and we saw very few people. We slowly climbed through an area with sparse trees until we reached the hills. We stopped at a small outpost, a caracol, where about twelve Turkish soldiers were stationed to keep watch for bandits in the hills.

Crossing Cafa Sane

Next, we faced a difficult climb over a mountain range called Cafa Sane, which rose 3,500 feet above the lake. We had to lead our horses up the steep path. The landscape reminded me of a Scottish moor—hilly and covered with bracken for miles Istanbul Tour Guides.

Meeting the Albanians

We soon reached a high plain where we encountered many tall Albanians with fearless eyes. We saw a few farms, but no villages. Albanians prefer to live alone on their farms, even if they are far away from other people. When they take their buffaloes to plough the fields, they always carry a gun, because they never know who they might meet along the way.

Entering Bandit Territory

At this point, we were in an area known for bandits. The captain of my guard became nervous, but I must admit, after sitting for so many hours in the saddle, I almost looked forward to a confrontation with the bandits. I thought I knew something the Turks didn’t. They were being very cautious—perhaps too cautious—trying hard to protect me from being captured. I knew that in the Greek-Bulgarian area, I could be a valuable prize for one of the revolutionary groups, not because I supported their cause, but because I could be worth a large sum of money to the Turkish government. But here, I felt safe.