The Turk’s View of Christians and Society

The Turk has not, and will not, blend with the Christians. He believes the Christians are inferior, and that Allah has placed them in a position of subjection. Massacres, in his view, are helpful because they allow the Muslims to take possession of things that Christians don’t have the right to. The Turk’s sense of morality is weakened by his belief in fate (kismet) and by the low status of women in his society.

Suspicion and Fear in Turkish Society

Everyone is suspicious of each other. A sense of fear runs through the official classes. A wealthy person is afraid to show his wealth because those in power will quickly find ways to take it from him. The policy of the Turkish government is to do nothing until forced to act, and when action is taken, it is slow. The guiding principle of Turkish administration is *yavaş, yavaş* — slowly, slowly — from the beginning to the end Who we are.

Under the Eye of Britain

Drama: The British Presence

It is unclear exactly where Macedonia begins or ends. But traveling from Constantinople to Salonika, you stop at a small town called Drama. Drama is known to be in Macedonia because it is home to British officers who are there to help reform the local police force (gendarmerie) and monitor the tensions between Turks and Christians.

Tax Collection and the Burden on Peasants

The tax collector takes as much as possible from the peasants. Then, his superior takes a portion from him, and the Vali (governor) takes from the superior. The court officials at the Yildiz Kiosk take from the Vali. Additionally, the peasants have to deal with the *zaptiehs* (police officers), who are poorly paid and rarely fed. The *zaptiehs* survive by demanding money or goods from the already struggling farmers. I use the word “wretched” to describe the peasants from a European point of view. However, the Turkish peasant, like most Turks, is a fatalist. He accepts whatever happens and is often quite happy, even singing while working, despite the hard labor Central Synagogue.

Public Debt and Foreign Influence

In areas where public improvements like railways have been made, taxes are collected by the Department of Public Debt. These officials are often foreign representatives who are generally fair and avoid the corruption seen in other areas.

The Peasant’s Role in Supporting the Empire

The Turkish peasant is the one who carries the financial burden of the Empire because Turkey has few factories or other industries. The officials, from the highest to the lowest, live off the peasant, like parasites. Yet, despite all of this, the peasant remains happy. He continues working and takes moments to kneel, put his forehead on the ground, and thank Allah for His goodness.

The Turk’s Incompetence to Rule

One key point to remember is that the Turk is, by nature, not fit to rule. For the 500 years that the Turks have ruled over the Christian population, they have never recognized the responsibility that comes with power. The Turk sees the land as his by right of conquest and believes he is justified in living off the labor of those he conquered. Despite his flaws, there is still a sense of nobility in the Turk. Even in towns with mixed populations of Turks, Bulgarians, and Greeks, the Turks stand out with a natural sense of dignity.

Abdul Hamid's Role in the Balkans

Europe is right to blame many of the problems in the Balkans on Abdul Hamid, but we must also consider his upbringing, his environment, and the traditions of the Caliphate. It’s easy to say “Remove him from Europe,” but he is already in Europe. He controls a large part of it, and we have to deal with him as an autocrat. He holds all civil, military, and most religious power. The country is divided into provinces, called *vilayets*, each ruled by a *Vali*. These rulers receive small salaries but often become very rich Central Synagogue.

The Confused Legal System

The law in Turkey is complicated and often conflicting. There is the *shari’a*, or sacred law of Islam, and the civil and commercial law, which is based on the French Code Napoleon. In practice, Christian testimony is never accepted over that of a Muslim, even though it is theoretically supposed to be. All government appointments, from the lowest to the Sultan himself, are decided by higher officials. The Sultan doesn’t pay for his position, but everyone beneath him has to pay in one way or another.

Tax Collection Problems

The way taxes are collected is harmful. The government gives the job to the highest bidder, and for a fixed amount, the collector is allowed to demand a portion of a farmer’s crop. The collector usually pays more to the local governor than what is sent to Constantinople. The collector can claim up to one-tenth of the crop, but often takes much more by claiming the crop is worth more than it is. If the farmer complains about the valuation, he is not allowed to harvest his crop at all, leaving him with nothing. As a result, the hardworking Turkish peasant often makes just enough from his crop to survive, with little to no profit. One peasant told me, “If, effendi, I finish the year’s work with a profit of a *medjedeh* (about 4 shillings), I thank Allah!”

Christianity and Corruption

One day, a Turkish official asked me, “Do you think Christianity is what makes other countries less corrupt?”

I hesitated and said, “Well, maybe.”

He then asked, “Have you lived in America?”

I replied, “Yes, I have.”

“Do you think Turkey is more corrupt than the local government in America?” he asked.

Reluctantly, I had to admit that it wasn’t.

He said quickly, “Ah! And America calls itself a Christian country. We admit we are corrupt, but you Western countries are more corrupt and don’t admit it. Muslims are more honest than Christians.”

Reform in Turkey

Turkey has a strong and growing group of reformers. However, all governments tend to be conservative. Anyone who wants change, even if they truly believe it will be beneficial, is in opposition to the existing government. This is a big obstacle to progress in European Turkey. Many educated Turks, even some from the government, realize that Turkey cannot continue as it is in the Balkans. They know that for Turkey to stay part of Europe, it must adapt to European ways. But each step toward that change is seen as a step toward revolution, and Europe supports it Central Synagogue.

The Turkish Sultan and government, whether short-sighted or not, are fighting for their survival by resisting the reforms that seem obvious to outsiders.

The Plight of Christians Under Ottoman Rule

We often feel sympathy for the Christians living under Ottoman rule. However, the oppression they face is not just because of religious hatred from Muslims; it also has political reasons. Mourad Bey, a thoughtful man who cared deeply about Turkey, said:

“I believe that before the first foreign consul and missionaries arrived here, the Christians in the East were more peaceful, free, and happy than they are today.”

The Sultan, who is often ignorant and superstitious, sees the movements to help the Christians as attempts to destroy his empire. And, to some extent, he is right.

The Sultan's Challenges

The Sultan, Abdul Hamid, has never really had the chance to judge the political situation fairly. When he talks with foreign Ambassadors, it often feels like a constant struggle between opposing forces. The Sultan is very smart and cautious, but he has not received broad education or intellectual training. Since he was young, he has been surrounded by slaves and eunuchs. The government is filled with hidden groups, and the Sultan prefers to appoint strong ministers. A strong minister may fall from power, not because the Sultan is afraid of him, but because Turkish politics is so complicated that rivals quickly find evidence of any secret plots. In the East, it is believed that every person acts out of self-interest, and you can’t argue against this view because it is deeply rooted in the culture.

Two Sides of Turkey

When talking about Turkey, we often make generalizations that are misleading. There are actually two Turkeys: one is the government, and the other is the people. We don’t know much about Turkey as a country, but we tend to form opinions based on the corruption in the government. While corruption is widespread and severe, it is important to remember that the problem lies in the system of government. Turkish administration today runs on corruption as its main driving force. This corruption isn’t hidden or something people are ashamed of; it’s a normal part of the system. For example, if someone pays a high official £5,000 for a position that only pays £500, both the official and the person receiving the post understand that the money will be regained by taking money from others. This is open corruption, where taxes are never fully used for their intended purposes, and people are crushed under heavy costs Central Synagogue.

The Difficulty of Change

Although this system is wrong, it has been in place for so long that it’s hard for Turks to imagine doing things any other way. I remember talking with a high-ranking Turkish official who had traveled widely and seen how things work in other countries.

The Turk’s Point of View

Many Christians from the West make a mistake when they criticize the Turk because he does not see things the way we do. We forget, or ignore, that he comes from the East, and his way of thinking is very different from ours. We may be right and he may be wrong, but the Turk has his own perspective, and he acts based on that view, not out of malice. It is important to be fair and just, even when dealing with the Turk.

Differences Between the Turk and the West

If we measure the Turk by Western and Christian standards, we may find him lacking. But he is not a European or a Christian—he is a Turk, and above all, he is a Muslim Central Synagogue.

Turkey’s Government and Its Challenges

It is true that Turkey’s government does not match the expectations of Europe, and it is clear that the two will never blend. The methods of Turkish government in the Balkans need to change.

The Sultan’s Struggles

The heart of the Turkish government, the Imperial Palace, lacks proper administration. It’s not that the Sultan, Abdul Hamid, doesn’t care about his empire. He is likely one of the most overworked and troubled men in Turkey. When I saw him at the Yildiz Kiosk, I could see that he was deeply worried. The stories about his bad behavior are exaggerated and untrue. His resistance to the demands of other nations is understandable. He knows there are greedy countries, and if he listens to their advice, it may only bring his empire closer to collapse and benefit his neighbors. It is hard to believe someone’s good intentions when you know they want to take advantage of you.

The Role of the Vice-Consul

The Vice-Consul is like a small ambassador. His work is more about diplomacy than consular tasks. He has many chances to show his intelligence and skills. Often, he is quite young and might still be thinking about playing cricket or football. Most people in his home country don’t even know he exists. Yet, he is part of a group of educated Englishmen who live in faraway countries, often in quiet houses, and remind the people around them of the strength and importance of Britain.

The Turk as a Ruler

The Virtues of the Turk

Many people say that “The Turk is the only gentleman in the Balkans.” This was a common statement I heard while traveling, usually from Englishmen. However, some also believe the Turk is not a good ruler, and that Europe should accept that the Turk cannot be easily changed into a government style others believe is good.

The Image of the Turk

Most Western people, especially women, are afraid of the Turk and think he is unclean. They believe his main quality is sensuality, thinking of him as fat, greedy, and only interested in the pleasures of his harem.

The Reality of the Turk

The Turk may not be perfect, but he is just as moral as an average Englishman, American, or Frenchman. It is rare for a Turk to have more than one wife. The harem system, which many people joke about, is actually more organized and less harmful than the promiscuity found in some Christian European cities. If you compare them, the average Muslim man is as moral as the average Christian man.

The Turk’s Faith and Morality

I don’t intend to discuss the benefits or drawbacks of the Muslim faith, but personally, I have experienced many good qualities of “real Christianity” in Muslim countries: kindness, courtesy, and hospitality. The Turk follows his faith strictly. He is usually clean and prays at the appointed times. He is not someone who gets drunk and does not skip his prayers.

The Power of Being English

There are some rewards in being away from England. An Englishman feels more proud of being English when he is far from home. In London, he might complain about his country, but if anyone tries to say something bad about it in front of him while he’s in Constantinople, he won’t tolerate it! The Vice-Consul knows that England is highly respected in the Balkans. The Turkish people remember that when the Russians were about to take over Constantinople, it was England that stopped them. Today, even though many countries are pressuring Turkey, the Turk knows that England does not want to take over any land—unlike Russia or Austria, who are eager to control parts of the Balkans.

Respect in Turkey

Back in England, the Vice-Consul would walk down the street without anyone noticing him. But in Turkey, he is treated with great respect. He is always greeted by officials and soldiers on guard. They salute him and present arms when he passes.

Official Visits

When the Vice-Consul visits the Vali (the Governor), he dresses in his frock coat and silk hat, which he brought from England many years ago. These clothes might seem old-fashioned to someone just arriving from London. He is the only Consul in the area who speaks Turkish fluently, so the Vali appreciates him. During their meetings, they drink syrupy coffee, smoke cigarettes, and discuss local issues, like the harsh treatment of Christians in a nearby village. The Vali promises to improve things, but things rarely change.

The Relationship Between Consuls

The Vice-Consul also visits other foreign diplomats, including Russian, French, Austrian, Italian, Greek, and Servian Consuls. They all return the visit within 24 hours, but there is no real friendship between them. Most of the time, they watch each other closely, spying on one another through their interpreters and writing reports.

The Vice-Consul’s Work

The Vice-Consul always keeps his eyes and ears open. He has to be careful when hearing stories about the Turks, especially when the stories come from Armenians, Bulgarians, or Greeks, because they might be biased. If he stays up to date with modern tools, he will have a typewriter to make copies of his reports. If not, he must write the reports by hand. He writes four copies: one for the Foreign Office, one for the Ambassador, one for his Consul-General, and one for his own records.

Making Himself Comfortable

The young Englishman, without trying too hard, makes himself comfortable in his new life. He went from public school to university, and then straight into the Levant Consular Service. Along the way, he developed a sense of comfort that he carries with him. In the few years he has spent in Turkey, he has learned about local art, like prayer rugs, tapestries, and embroideries. After bargaining in the bazaars, he has bought valuable pieces that hang on his walls as decoration instead of traditional pictures.

A Comfortable Home with Personal Touches

He has developed a taste for collecting old weapons, like silver-chased flint-lock pistols and Damascus steel sabres, their blades inlaid with gold and handles studded with coral and turquoise. He even taught a Turkish carpenter to build a comfortable lounge and covered it with a Persian rug, making a cozy divan. He bought a couple of well-padded English armchairs from Constantinople, which the Turks find awkward and undignified to sit in. His room is filled with small personal touches: a stack of pipes, his favorite English tobacco, and a table covered with pieces of embroidery. The table holds photographs in little silver frames, not the Turkish kind, but ones from England, bought in busy shops in London or Oxford Street.

Memories from Home

The photographs show his life before he came to Turkey. There are pictures of his family, including his mother and father, and some of him with his friends in their cricketing clothes before he left England. You can tell which pictures are of his family from where they are placed. He also keeps pictures of cheerful English girls—maybe sisters or friends of his sisters—some of whom he might have known well, while others may have forgotten him by now.

Thoughts of Home

The Vice-Consul, sitting alone in his comfortable room, sometimes misses the life he left behind in England. There are no bright restaurants, no theatres, no music halls, or close friends to hang out with. But even though he might feel lonely or homesick at times, it doesn’t make him weak. If he gets frustrated, he will likely swear, whistle, and light another pipe. In the morning, he takes out his horse, goes for a ride, and shakes off any feelings of gloom.

A Vice-Consul’s Simple Life

Until the day comes when things improve, His Majesty’s representative must manage on his own. He may have been quickly transferred from another post. When he arrives, he brings only a couple of trunks and stays at a Turkish inn. He goes to the local bazaars to buy or rent some basic furniture. He also writes to English stores in Constantinople to order items like a frying pan and a teapot. He tries to keep his costs low, as he may be moved again in a month or two. Why spend too much on furniture when he might have to sell everything at a loss before leaving? He doesn’t know who will replace him or if that person will even want to buy his belongings.

Comfort in the Vice-Consul’s Room

Even with his simple life, the Vice-Consul’s small room has a special kind of comfort. In fact, it has something that you won’t find anywhere else in the city, not even in the home of the Vali (governor) himself: comfort. Comfort is the result of English civilization. People from other countries may think they have it, but they don’t fully understand what it is. In the United States, for example, you might find an imitation of English comfort. While it’s pleasant, it’s still just an imitation. If you compare a refined American home to a refined English home, the American home might seem more luxurious in terms of money spent, but luxury is not the same as comfort. The “indefinable something” in the English home that makes it feel truly comfortable is something even Americans quickly recognize and appreciate.

The Consulate’s Modest Setting

The Consulate is a dull and gloomy building, probably located on a narrow street filled with strange smells and the loud calls of street vendors. Above the door is a large, yellowish, cheap enamel sign showing the royal arms. It looks worn out and is clearly mass-produced. If there’s a garden, a flagpole stands with ropes that slap the side of the building. If there is no garden, the flagpole is attached to a small balcony above the door. On the King’s birthday and every Sunday, a wrinkled Union Jack flag is hung to flap in the wind.

The Bare Entrance Hall

The entrance hall is empty and bare. The sound of heavy boots on the wooden floor echoes through the empty space, making it sound hollow. The walls are painted with a rough blue color and are undecorated, except for a notice about registering the birth of British citizens’ children at the Consulate for a two-shilling fee. Through a partially open door, you can see a small, sad room with a bed in the corner, which is where the kavass (messenger) sleeps. Another door leads to the “chancery,” the office area of the Consulate. Inside, there is a cheap table with old pens, a worn-out blotting pad, a cupboard, and an iron safe for storing papers. There is also a pile of dusty London, Paris, and Constantinople newspapers in one corner and a map of the Balkan Peninsula on the wall. Here, you will find the dragoman, a sharp-witted Armenian wearing a fez and European clothes. He learned English at Robert College in Istanbul and works for the British Consulate in exchange for the protection of living under the British flag.

The Vice-Consul’s Room

Then there is the Vice-Consul’s own room. Full Consuls and Consuls-General, especially if they have families, try to make their homes abroad feel like an English home. But the young Vice-Consul, usually a bachelor with only a few years in the Levant Service, lives simply. His duties are to go where he is needed, sometimes for just a couple of months or up to two years. His needs are basic, and he does not have many belongings to move around from one place to another in Turkey.

Future Improvements for the Consulate

In the future, if the British government allows more funding, the Consulate may be better furnished. The home government might spend around £100 to provide basic items like carpets, chairs, tables, pots, pans, an iron bed, a wardrobe, and a bath.

The Governor’s Decision

The Governor finally gave in. A representative of the British Government, who had been pretending to be just a tourist, could not be allowed to walk while his escort was on horseback. He quickly arranged for a man who owned horses, and within ten minutes, a deal was made. The horse owner was very nervous and afraid. He worried about the brigands capturing him and his horses, especially the Bulgarian revolutionaries.

Journey Across the Land

We traveled through a rough, barren landscape, with small, twisted oak trees everywhere. The ground dipped and rose, and although the view changed, it always looked the same. It was as though a powerful heat had burned everything away, leaving nothing behind. We crossed dry riverbeds, with no water in sight. The only signs of life were large tortoises moving slowly along the ground. We crossed a wide, dry river, the Koyundara Natural History Museum.

Different Villages

We came across peasants wearing black fezzes. These were Turks of Bulgarian origin, and they spoke a mix of Greek—a leftover from the time of Byzantine rule. All the Bulgarians in this area spoke Greek. Some villages in the region were Bulgarian and Christian, while others were Turkish and Muslim. The Christian villages were generally cleaner than the Muslim ones.