Clan Feuds and the Fragile Truce

A few years ago, the powerful Beys of Albania came together in Elbasan and made a truce to stop their ongoing clan feuds. They agreed that members of rival clans should not be killed on sight, and for a while, this rule worked. However, you cannot change the way an Albanian behaves just by making an agreement. The truce has since ended, and once again, guerrilla warfare is the norm.

Isolated Valleys and Different Customs

The valleys of Albania are so isolated and disconnected, not just from the outside world but from each other, that in just half a day’s ride, you can notice different styles of clothing. For example, in one valley, the men wore tight, thick felt caps that looked like white smoking caps. In another valley, the men wore tight-fitting linen skull caps. Further on, you could find men with black felt caps Istanbul Tour Guide.

Constant Feuds Between Clans

The Albanian clans are always in conflict, and if they could unite, they could push the Turks out of Albania in one year. However, the feuds don’t just happen between different clans; they even occur within the same clan. Many Albanians don’t die from diseases, but from disagreements.

The Vendetta A Never-Ending Cycle of Revenge

When an Albanian kills someone, they must flee to the mountains because the dead person’s family will hunt them down to get revenge. Sometimes, the person seeking revenge gets killed too. Then, the family of the person who was killed will start a war with the family of the murderer. This is how a vendetta begins, and it can last for years. The fighting doesn’t always happen face-to-face. Often, revenge is carried out with a bullet from behind a rock or a stab in the back during the night.

Murder as a Part of Life

Murder is so common in Albania that it is not seen as something unusual. The Albanians accept it as part of life. They don’t rely on courts or laws to settle disagreements. Their way of thinking is simple and primitive: if someone offends you, you take action by killing them.

The People of Elbasan and Albania

If the Albanians were to stop their family feuds, end their clan wars, and come together as one nation, Elbasan would be the capital. It is the most central town in Albania. However, this is unlikely to happen as long as the current fighting spirit remains in the hearts of the mountain warriors.

The Fierce Independence of the Albanians

Like other mountain people around the world, Albanians are more independent, defiant, and sometimes aggressive than those who live on flatter land. In the northern part of Albania, in the Dibra district, the hatred of the Turks is so strong that a Turkish person’s life is not safe. In the southern parts, the anger towards the ruling power is less intense, and it decreases as you move further south. By the time you reach the Greek border, the resentment is almost gone Istanbul Tour Guide.

Differences in the People of North and South Albania

A week of hard travel by horse will take you from the north to the south of Albania. Along the way, you will notice big differences in appearance. The northern people are shorter, darker, and have sharp, watchful eyes, ready to defend their honor or confront anyone who insults them. Albanians today come from many different backgrounds—Italian, Greek, Slavic, and Bulgarian. Their ancestors fled to these mountains many years ago to escape foreign conquerors. While they have often united against outside invaders, old tribal rivalries have never disappeared.

Albania and Scotland: Similarities Between Two Warrior Cultures

To give a simple comparison, Albania’s situation is similar to Scotland’s Highlands in the 16th century, when the clans were constantly fighting each other. Many times, I thought about the similarities between Albania and Scotland. Some parts of Albania look just like the Scottish Highlands. Both places share a deep love for their country. Just like the Scottish Highlanders, Albanians quickly take offense and are ready to fight anyone who disagrees with them. The Albanian quilted petticoat looks similar to the Highland kilt. And, if you were to hear Albanian music in the hills, you might almost think you were listening to the sound of bagpipes.

The Albanian Clan System

The Albanians respect the authority of their own Bey, or chieftain, but they reject the rule of the Turks. Each clan leader has the power to punish any member who goes against the tribe’s interests. Every valley in Albania has its own Bey, and many of these valleys are in a state of war with each other. Clansmen are often too afraid to cross into neighboring valleys for fear of being attacked. This caused me problems because it was hard to find guides who could lead me over the mountains to reach the villages or towns I wanted to visit. Many guides either didn’t know the route or were afraid to take me because of the danger.

The Road to Elbasan

Turkish officials at Elbasan were happy with the “carriage way,” as they called it. However, they ignored the fact that before you could reach this road from Struga, you would have to travel through about forty miles of wild mountains. And, on the Elbasan side, you would need to cross the Skumbi River at least five times, and the route along the hillside was no wider than a footpath. When I suggested that the difficult, rocky parts of the road should be improved, the usual response was, “Yes, but that is the hardest part, so we don’t do it.”

Failed Road Construction Projects

A year or two ago, an Italian engineer was hired to help build a better road. He started on an easy slope in the hills and spent a lot of money cutting out a broad path. However, the road didn’t lead anywhere useful and stopped where the rocks began. The Turkish officials decided the engineer should go back to Italy. Now, the road that was built is useless. No one uses it because it is harder to travel on than the old, rough track that people have been using for years Istanbul Tour Guide.

Challenges in Reaching Elbasan

Even when you reach the Skumbi River, there is still a lot of thick scrub to push through, many streams to cross, and several miles to walk up a small, slow-moving stream before finally reaching Elbasan. On the day we arrived in Elbasan, we had been riding for fourteen hours.

The Central Town of Albania

Elbasan is an important town in Albania. It is similar to the Highlands of Scotland in the 16th century, where constant fighting and warfare were common. Albania has a long history of guerrilla warfare, with many people fighting for control of the land.

Violence in Elbasan

In Elbasan, there are around twenty or thirty murders every week. The town is full of danger and lawlessness, and people have learned to live with violence. In fact, even ducks are used as scavengers to clean up the remains of the dead.

Albanian Silk

Albania is also known for producing silk, and the country has a long history of making high-quality fabric. Silk production is an important part of the local economy.

The Best Hotel in Elbasan

The best hotel in Elbasan is run by a very focused landlord. The hotel may not be luxurious, but it’s the most comfortable place to stay in the town.

Mr. Carnegie’s Fame

Despite the rough conditions, people in Elbasan have heard of Mr. Carnegie and his fame, showing that even in such a remote area, news of the outside world can still reach them.

The Uncertain Path

One time, we were traveling along a narrow path next to a deep crevice. The path was soft and unstable because of loose rocks that had slid down from the mountain top. I was leading the horse, letting the reins hang loosely, as I trusted the horse to find its way better than I could guide it. I turned my face to the rocky wall because looking into the deep drop beside me made me feel very sick. Suddenly, a shepherd’s dog appeared and started barking loudly. The horse stopped in its tracks. If it had gotten scared and reared up, I might not have been here to tell the story. If I had urged the horse forward, it could have led to a terrible accident.

My Turkish guide, who was at the back of the group and on safer ground, quickly dismounted, climbed into the rocks, and used stones to chase the dog away. Then, we continued our journey. In just a few moments, we were back on safer ground. Those two minutes were some of the most intense of my life. My guide looked pale, and I probably didn’t look too good myself if I had looked in a mirror Istanbul Daily Tour.

Ancient Roads of Albania

In other places, the road was through a narrow gap just wide enough for the horses to fit. The walls of the gap rose steeply on either side, making the path feel even tighter. Sometimes, we came across old cobbled sections of the road. These were parts of ancient Roman roads that were over two thousand years old. All across Albania, we found pieces of these Roman roads. Sometimes we would find them suddenly, and just as quickly, they would disappear. Other times, they would lead us to the edge of a cliff, showing that the land had changed since they were built.

Although the modern road we were traveling on often differed from the old Roman roads, we could still see parts of the ancient stone path winding up the hillside, like a grey ribbon across the mountains. Even though the route was difficult and dangerous, it was the main highway across Albania, connecting Macedonia to Durazzo on the coast. This path had once been traveled by a mighty army long ago, and it had seen over twenty centuries of history.

The Scenery and My Discomfort

The scenery around me was beautiful, but I couldn’t fully enjoy it because I wasn’t staying at a comfortable hotel. The colourful leaves on the trees, the rushing river, and the grey, jagged rocks that looked like castles would have made for a wonderful description if I had been sitting on a hotel porch with no worries except waiting for dinner. Instead, I smoked my pipe, appreciated the beauty, and promised myself to come back when a hotel was built on the hill. Then, I went to the kitchen to check on the chickens that were being boiled.

Simple and Dark Living Conditions

In my room, the only light I had was a candle stuck in a crack in the floor. The floor also served as my seat and table. The soldiers were downstairs by the firelight, singing sad Turkish love songs. I used my boots as a pillow and kept my hands in my pockets to stay warm while I tried to sleep Istanbul Daily Tour.

The Mysterious Dawn

There’s something strange and eerie about traveling through an unfamiliar land at dawn. The light in the early morning is mysterious. As we set out for Elbasan, we all shivered in the cold. We had promised ourselves we’d reach the town by night, but we had to climb higher in the dark. None of us spoke because it was too cold to talk. The leaders of the group stayed close, and we climbed over rocky clefts. The animals hesitated at times, but kept going. As daybreak came, a thin haze covered the world, and clouds hung in the dark ravines below us, making the place look like a giant graveyard.

The Difficult Descent

The path down the mountain was steep and winding. The force of centuries of rushing water had carved deep gaps in the rock, so our route cut into and out of the mountain. Sometimes, the track was so narrow it was only a few inches wide. At times, I held my breath as my horse carefully walked along the edge of a cliff, with a drop of a thousand feet below. My heart raced when one of the soldiers’ horses slipped, but I couldn’t turn around for fear of disturbing my own horse. For a brief moment, the horse struggled to regain its balance, and we all stopped to let the frightened animal calm down.

The Guards Caution

Even though there was little danger, the captain of the guard remained very careful. He always had two or three of his best soldiers about 200 yards ahead, keeping a close watch. Whenever the road turned, the soldiers spread out to make sure no one could sneak up on me. It was an interesting sight, and I found it a bit funny. It reminded me of the days when I was a child and played “robbers” with my friends.

A Moment of Excitement

One time, we had an exciting moment. We were on flat land when, suddenly, a group of six Albanians appeared from behind some trees. The soldiers in front quickly stopped, turned their horses, grabbed their rifles, and prepared for anything. I admit, when I saw the Albanians coming, I instinctively reached for my revolver. The soldiers got ready to shoot. But, despite their fierce looks, the Albanians didn’t want to fight. They seemed to enjoy scaring the Turks, but ignored them and smiled at me as they rode past Istanbul Daily Tour.

Reaching Kjuks for the Night

In the distance, we saw our destination for the night – a new inn, or han, in a place called Kjuks. It was on a rocky ledge overlooking a beautiful valley, with mountains stretching as far as we could see. As the sun set, the valleys grew darker, and the mountain tops glowed in a soft rosy light. It was a stunning scene, perfect for a relaxing holiday. But, of course, in these modern times, we prefer to enjoy nature while also expecting a good dinner and comfort afterward.

The Han at Kjuks

Unfortunately, there was no good dinner waiting at Kjuks. The han looked beautiful from afar, but up close, it was just like any other simple han. It was a big, dirty barn with whitewashed walls that were peeling. The kitchen was a small fire on the ground, and the rooms had windows, but no glass in them. There was no furniture—just dirty boards on the floor.

Settling In for the Night

I took three of the rooms. I gave the largest room to the soldiers, another to the captain of the guard and my guide, and kept the smallest room for myself. We made tea and drank a lot of it, even though it was smoky. Then, we spent an hour trying to buy three chickens to add to the rice the soldiers were carrying in their saddlebags.

Albanians and the Turks

Why I Had an Escort

Let me explain why I had an escort. I didn’t pay anything for it. The Turkish authorities didn’t send the escort because they wanted to honor me personally. In fact, I would have preferred to travel alone with my guide. However, the Turks knew that if I traveled alone, there was a big chance I could be captured by one of the revolutionary “bands” in the hills. If that happened, there would likely be a conflict, and I wouldn’t be released until a ransom was paid, which could be anywhere between £6,000 and £12,000, or even more.

To avoid that, the Turkish authorities sent the escort. They wanted to prevent the situation where their country looked unstable, and they also didn’t want to pay a large ransom. The escort was provided because it was safer for them, especially in areas where these “bands” operated Istanbul Daily Tour.

In the Wildest Part of Turkey

This arrangement was fine as long as I was traveling in areas where the revolutionary “bands” were active. However, once I reached the wildest parts of European Turkey, it wasn’t necessary. The Albanians, unlike the Turks, had no reason to harm me. The Albanian people have always been enemies of the Turks, but they don’t have any issue with Europeans, especially with people from England.

When I spoke with local Albanian peasants, they weren’t sure if I was Austrian, German, Italian, or French at first. But as soon as they realized I was from England, their attitude changed. They seemed eager to treat me with respect and honor.

Albanians and the Turks

In general, Albanians can be seen as brigands towards the Turks. However, even though there were bandits in the hills, I was confident they had no intention of harming me. Albanians may kill, but they don’t steal from Europeans. If my guide and I had been wearing Turkish fezzes, we might have had trouble with the bandits. But the Albanian hillmen who might have been watching us from a distance knew we were Europeans and had no interest in causing any problems.

I liked to think, and still do, that instead of the Turkish soldiers protecting me, it was actually me who saved them from being caught in a storm of Albanian gunfire.

Boats on Lake Ochrida

There are many boats on Lake Ochrida. They are shaped like gondolas and are moved with large, shovel-like oars. Surprisingly, no boats on the lake use sails. Even when the wind is strong and the journey is long—sometimes taking a full day—the boats are still powered only by oars. This is not because the people don’t know how to use sails, but because the mountain winds are so sudden and strong that a boat with a sail could easily tip over.

Water Wheels for Irrigation

The old-fashioned water wheels are often seen in the area. These wheels are connected to a treadmill, and several tin cans are attached to the wheel. As a man walks on the treadmill, it turns the wheel and raises water. The water is then poured into a trough and carried off to irrigate nearby fields. This method is a simple way to combine exercise with useful work. A man can take a pleasant walk for four or five hours before breakfast without ever leaving home Istanbul Tour Guides.

The People of Struga

In Struga, there are very few Bulgarians or Greeks. The majority of the people are Turkish. However, the most noticeable group are the Albanians. Albanian men are tall, dark, and have attractive, regular features. I also noticed that the Albanian man takes pride in his appearance and is a bit of a dandy. His jacket is often decorated with silver or gold, and his kilt is always very clean. His shoes, usually made of red leather, have a large puff-ball on the toe. While I didn’t find this style particularly attractive, the Albanians think it looks “swagger.” They also carry revolvers with carvings and inlays on their waist. If they prefer a gun, it’s long and thin, often decorated with precious stones and a gold inscription along the barrel.

The Old Women and the Miraculous Water

While we were sitting among the ruins, two old women, bent and frail, hobbled up from the town. One of them was sick and had come to find a tiny stream among the wild plants growing near the broken walls. She believed that if she drank just a few drops of this water, she would feel better. The soldiers found the stream, but the water was muddy and dirty. The old woman drank some from a shell, and after a short time, she said she felt much better. She left, convinced that the water had magical healing powers. I didn’t know where this belief came from, but it was common among Turks, Greeks, Bulgarians, and Albanians. Instead of going to doctors, people often bring the sick to this spot to drink the water and save on medical bills.

The Church of St. Clement

Not far from the ruins stands a small, old church called St. Clement. It is made of thin red bricks stacked on their sides, and the tower is short and octagonal. There is another St. Clement church farther away, but the Turks took it over and turned it into a mosque. The Christians had to build a new one. Inside, the church is dark and damp, and it smells mysterious. Only a little light comes through the high, cobwebbed windows. The icons and silver decorations are old and not in great condition. The priest who showed me around hinted that if I wanted to take something, I could have it in exchange for a suitable gift, but I wasn’t interested in buying anything. It’s possible that this church was built on the site of a Roman temple. I noticed two Roman pillars, and outside, I found a marble slab with signs of a Roman inscription Istanbul Tour Guides.

The Beautiful Lake of Ochrida

Lake Ochrida is large, and its far edge is just visible on clear days. The lake area has some lovely wooded places, and on small peninsulas, there are Greek and Bulgarian monasteries. In these monasteries, the monks pray to God while also holding grudges against other Christians.

Entering Albania

The Journey Begins

After leaving Ochrida, I entered Albania. In one day of horseback riding, I passed from Bulgarian villages to Greek villages, and by night, I was fully in Albanian territory.

The Road to Struga

The first part of the journey was along the northern shore of Lake Ochrida, heading toward the town of Struga. The road was broad but dusty, and it was common to meet cattle, mules carrying charcoal, and horse riders along the way.

Staying by the Lake

Our house was located by the lakeside. It had a balcony covered with vines, and we ate our meals there on the two nights we stayed. As we sat, smoked, and looked out at the lake under the full moon, we agreed that the setting felt more like Italy than anything we expected in Macedonia.

The Medieval Town of Ochrida

From a distance, Ochrida looks like a medieval town, like those shown in old pictures. It has strong walls surrounding the houses, which are tightly packed together inside. However, outside the walls, the area looks deserted. On one side, the wall has fallen away, and the town has spread down to the edge of the lake. The town is messy and disorganized, and at night, it feels dark and mysterious, perfect for a story of pirates or hiding assassins Istanbul Tour Guides.

A City of Intrigue

Ochrida is a place full of intrigue. Greeks and Bulgarians are always plotting against each other, lying about everything, and the Turkish ruler gets no gratitude from either side.

The Old Castle

Above the town, on the rocks, are the remains of an old castle. Its walls are fifteen feet thick, but now they are broken and in ruins. The Romans were certainly here, and I found some Roman ruins, but the castle likely saw its busiest days during the time of the Servian Empire.

Turkish Soldiers in the Fortress

Inside the castle, a group of dirty Turkish soldiers were camped. Their tents were filthy, worse than those of a gypsy camp. They looked as though they never washed. Their clothes were greasy and torn, and their boots were falling apart. I spoke with them, and they told me that their pay was one medjedeh a month. They hadn’t been paid for six months, and over the four years of their service, their pay had fallen twenty months behind.

Entering the City

The streets of the town were very narrow, almost like alleys, paved with large cobblestones. The houses on both sides were huge and overhung the streets. We entered the town with a lot of noise and excitement. The Chief of Police, along with several police officers, came out to greet us. They had heard about our arrival and were eager to welcome us.

A Wild Encounter

The Chief of Police was a young, sharp-looking man. However, he was riding a very wild and difficult horse, the most unruly one I had ever seen, even compared to horses in Wyoming. When we exchanged greetings, everything went smoothly, but when we tried to shake hands, his horse didn’t seem to like my horse, especially because I was a “Christian.” His horse tried to kick mine into a nearby coffeehouse, and my horse retaliated. For about 30 seconds, the air was filled with the sound of hooves clashing Istanbul Tour Guides.

A Bumpy Ride Through Town

It was customary for the Chief and me to ride together through the town to our place of rest. The streets were so narrow that our shoulders kept bumping into the walls, and our horses kept bumping into each other. This led to more kicking, and the sound of the mounted police and soldiers following us sounded like a train in a tunnel.

No Hotel, but Kindness from Locals

There were no hotels in the town, so some relatives of the dragoman (our guide) at the British Consulate in Monastir, who were Bulgarians, kindly offered their home to us. The dragoman was Greek, but he had married into this Bulgarian family. This was an example of how love can break through political and racial differences in this part of the world.

Our hostess was a widow. Her husband had been killed just a few months earlier by a Turkish enemy right in the street.

The Turk’s View of Christians and Society

The Turk has not, and will not, blend with the Christians. He believes the Christians are inferior, and that Allah has placed them in a position of subjection. Massacres, in his view, are helpful because they allow the Muslims to take possession of things that Christians don’t have the right to. The Turk’s sense of morality is weakened by his belief in fate (kismet) and by the low status of women in his society.

Suspicion and Fear in Turkish Society

Everyone is suspicious of each other. A sense of fear runs through the official classes. A wealthy person is afraid to show his wealth because those in power will quickly find ways to take it from him. The policy of the Turkish government is to do nothing until forced to act, and when action is taken, it is slow. The guiding principle of Turkish administration is *yavaş, yavaş* — slowly, slowly — from the beginning to the end Who we are.

Under the Eye of Britain

Drama: The British Presence

It is unclear exactly where Macedonia begins or ends. But traveling from Constantinople to Salonika, you stop at a small town called Drama. Drama is known to be in Macedonia because it is home to British officers who are there to help reform the local police force (gendarmerie) and monitor the tensions between Turks and Christians.